FEATURE · NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, F/W ’24
Batsheva F/W ’24: A Celebration of Life
Batsheva F/W ’24: A Celebration of Life
Batsheva F/W ’24: A Celebration of Life
At New York Fashion Week, Batsheva Hay cast only women over 40, and she wasn’t the only designer rethinking who gets to walk the runway.
By Lola Spring
“You tell girls to go catwalk and be sexy, but some of these girls have never even experienced their first kiss, so they don’t understand how to be like that.”
— Shanina Shaik
Elegance and sophistication grace the runway as aging women redefine fashion industry beauty standards. Fashion designer Batsheva Hay pioneered the concept of casting her show with women solely over the age of 40 at the debut of her Fall/Winter ’24 collection at NYFW this past February.
Elegance and sophistication grace the runway as aging women redefine fashion industry beauty standards. Fashion designer Batsheva Hay pioneered the concept of casting her show with women solely over the age of 40 at the debut of her Fall/Winter ’24 collection at NYFW this past February.
Among the models to walk in the presentation were renowned American journalist Amy Fine Collins, former Hollywood starlet Molly Ringwald and NYC cool-girl fashion designer, Victoria Bartlett.
Among the models to walk in the presentation were renowned American journalist Amy Fine Collins, former Hollywood starlet Molly Ringwald and NYC cool-girl fashion designer, Victoria Bartlett.
Hay also included pedestrians from the streets of New York City. She scouted characters in subway stations, bodegas, and coffee shops to bring her latest collection to life.
Hay also included pedestrians from the streets of New York City. She scouted characters in subway stations, bodegas, and coffee shops to bring her latest collection to life.
Photographer Ming Smith, who was approached by Hay on the subway and asked if she’d like to walk in Batsheva’s F/W ‘24 show, expressed her worries to me in the ladies’ room on the 18th floor of Starrett-Lehigh, this season’s NYFW runway venue.
Photographer Ming Smith, who was approached by Hay on the subway and asked if she’d like to walk in Batsheva’s F/W ‘24 show, expressed her worries to me in the ladies’ room on the 18th floor of Starrett-Lehigh, this season’s NYFW runway venue.
“I’ve never been on a runway,” she shared. “Does my hair look okay? I’m so nervous.”
“I’ve never been on a runway,” she shared. “Does my hair look okay? I’m so nervous.”
She added that at age 77, this would be her first experience in front of the camera as opposed to behind it.
She added that at age 77, this would be her first experience in front of the camera as opposed to behind it.
Age representation in the fashion industry (let alone on the runway) has long been sparse, with design houses and modeling agencies predominantly favoring youth over experience.
Age representation in the fashion industry (let alone on the runway) has long been sparse, with design houses and modeling agencies predominantly favoring youth over experience.
A LinkedIn article on age-inclusivity in advertising found that “women 50-plus feel under-represented in advertising and prefer brands that show women of all ages.”
A LinkedIn article on age-inclusivity in advertising found that “women 50-plus feel under-represented in advertising and prefer brands that show women of all ages.”
However, a notable shift is occurring, as evidenced by recent events in the world of fashion.
However, a notable shift is occurring, as evidenced by recent events in the world of fashion.
28-year-old Christian Cowan, a rising luxury clothing designer based out of New York, turned heads this past fashion week as his model lineup consisted of ‘90s supermodels including Nelly Pakh, Eleanor Simon and Emily Sandberg Gold.
28-year-old Christian Cowan, a rising luxury clothing designer based out of New York, turned heads this past fashion week as his model lineup consisted of ‘90s supermodels including Nelly Pakh, Eleanor Simon and Emily Sandberg Gold.
Leaning into Upper East Side old-money aesthetics, Cowan’s F/W ‘24 collection stunned those who bore witness with a stark departure from his trademark silhouettes, which cater more towards young club-goers on the downtown scene.
Leaning into Upper East Side old-money aesthetics, Cowan’s F/W ‘24 collection stunned those who bore witness with a stark departure from his trademark silhouettes, which cater more towards young club-goers on the downtown scene.
In an interview by Vogue Runway, Cowan notes that “these are women that run their shit,” in reference to the affluent women that inspired his newest line.
In an interview by Vogue Runway, Cowan notes that “these are women that run their shit,” in reference to the affluent women that inspired his newest line.
Another fashion house to bring age diversity to the catwalk this season was famed label Balmain; creative director Olivier Rousteing populated his presentation with models of and above middle age.
Another fashion house to bring age diversity to the catwalk this season was famed label Balmain; creative director Olivier Rousteing populated his presentation with models of and above middle age.
About 35% of the 57 models to strut the runway were women over the age of 35, a mighty step in the journey towards fostering lasting age diversity in the collective fashion and modeling industries.
About 35% of the 57 models to strut the runway were women over the age of 35, a mighty step in the journey towards fostering lasting age diversity in the collective fashion and modeling industries.
According to the New York Times, Rousteing’s latest collection was a “love letter” to Bordeaux, France, the city in which he grew up.
According to the New York Times, Rousteing’s latest collection was a “love letter” to Bordeaux, France, the city in which he grew up.
France’s culture of respecting and honoring their elders shined through the various looks presented on Rousteing’s runway, a wholesome nod to his earliest fashion muses.
France’s culture of respecting and honoring their elders shined through the various looks presented on Rousteing’s runway, a wholesome nod to his earliest fashion muses.
Batsheva, Christian Cowan and Balmain have all proved that ‘women of a certain age’ are just as sexy, sultry and confident on the runway as their college-aged counterparts.
Batsheva, Christian Cowan and Balmain have all proved that ‘women of a certain age’ are just as sexy, sultry and confident on the runway as their college-aged counterparts.
And while many other big-name designers have yet to warm up to the idea of highlighting different age ranges in their bi-yearly presentations, it’s clear that the future of fashion is headed in a progressive direction, making way for newfound age inclusivity and diversity in the industry.
And while many other big-name designers have yet to warm up to the idea of highlighting different age ranges in their bi-yearly presentations, it’s clear that the future of fashion is headed in a progressive direction, making way for newfound age inclusivity and diversity in the industry.